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Chicken Coops 101: Drafts vs. Ventilation



You don't have to raise chickens long before you'll come across something that reads, "chicken coops should be dry and draft-free, but well-ventilated". That's excellent advice to be sure, but what exactly does that mean? What's the difference between a draft and ventilation?

Drafts vs. Ventilation


So to begin with, a draft is defined as "a current of air being drawn into a room". Ventilation is defined as "the process by which outdoor air is intentionally introduced into a space and stale air is removed". Not much help there....

But in layman's terms, a draft has come to mean openings, cracks or crevices down near the floor of the coop, while ventilation refers to openings (generally windows and vents up under the eaves) higher up. Preferably above the level of the chickens' heads when they are asleep on the roosting bars.

So why is this important?


Why Ventilation is Important


Well, the most important reason to have good ventilation in your chicken coop is to allow the ammonia fumes created when the chickens poop to escape. Ammonia fumes are lighter than air, so ventilation up high will allow them to rise and drift out of the coop.

Ammonia fumes are extremely corrosive. The build up of ammonia will cause eye irritation burning of the nose, throat and respiratory tract. This is especially damaging to poultry because of their sensitive respiratory systems.  Continued exposure to the fumes can result in acute respiratory distress and even blindness. 

The fact that that chickens are small and close to ground level, where high concentrations of ammonia fumes are initially located, means that allowing the ammonia to escape as quickly as possible is critical. Vents located under the eaves of your coop providing a cross breeze will be effective at allowing the fumes to escape.  


But there's also another reason for good ventilation. 

Although ammonia fumes are lighter than air and will naturally rise, in high humidity or moist locations, the resulting ammonia vapors are actually heavier than the air and will settle on the ground instead of rising. Clearly, this poses a risk to your flock.

Providing good ventilation in your coop will also allow any moisture in the coop to escape. Some moisture is normal especially if you raise ducks. They tend to emit a fair amount of moisture into the air as they breathe, so if you raise ducks either alone or with chickens, proper ventilation becomes even more crucial. (Side note: I never recommend leaving water inside your coop for the simple reason that it introduces potentially harmful moisture to the coop.)

Most chicken coops have windows that can be open or shut, depending on the time of year, climate and temperature. There should also be small openings or vents up high that stay open year round to provide good airflow and an escape route for ammonia and moisture. Remember to cover all windows, vents and other openings with 1/4-1/2" welded wire for predator protection.


Reducing Drafts

Because it's important not to have cold air blowing on your chickens when they're sleeping, any openings at roost level or below should be closed up in the winter. That will reduce the drafts in your coop. 

Obviously, there's not a lot to be done about the small "pop" door in the coop. That needs to be left open during the day to allow your chickens to come and go to lay their eggs, but in the middle of the winter, it allows a good amount of cold air into the coop. 

On super cold blustery days, the chickens spend a good portion of the day inside the coop out of the wind and snow, putting them right in the path of the rush of cold air coming in through that small opening.

My solution is to install "draft drapes" across it. Once the chickens get used to walking through them tied back at each side, I gradually can leave them hanging down over the opening during the day to keep the winter air out.

More details and how-to of this cute and practical project can be found in my new book 101 Chicken Keeping Hacks, and I can tell you that this being my second winter using them, they do make a big difference in helping to keep my girls' coop warm and draft-free all winter long! 


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Take a Peek at my Week Sept 30-Oct 6


It's undeniable. Fall has arrived to Maine! Although most of the week was gray and drizzly, it was still so nice to spend the week at home, curled up in front of the fire sipping hot tea, doing a little writing, catching up on things and just enjoying a little down time before I head back out on the road next week to celebrate the release and promote my new book 101 Chicken Keeping Hacks. Enjoy this peek at our week! 



























If you enjoyed these photos, please join me on Instagram so you don't miss a thing! 


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Cheesy Lobster Frittata


One of my favorite things is fresh eggs. Another is lobster. So it's a good thing we live in Maine and raise chickens, right? But I never thought about combining the two until I spied this recipe from my friend and food blogger Kate Jackson, creator of Framed Cooks.


I have been reading Framed Cooks forever (in fact, it's one of the very first blogs I started following when I started my own blog!) and I've tried countless recipes from it over the years. I've never been disappointed.

So, I convinced Kate to let me share her recipe with you all, and you're going to love it! In her words, "Sweet lobster, little pockets of melted cheese, tender veggies, all held together with the eggs and the bread and oh my..." Oh my, is right!



I hope you enjoy Kate's recipe for Lobster Frittata, and while you're at it, be sure to head over and follow Kate on her social media @framedcooks. Did I mention how drool-worthy all of her food photos are?





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How to Install Lights Outside your Coop with NO Electricity


Several weeks ago, I figured out how to install lights inside my chicken coop without having any electricity to the coop. You can read all about it here. Well I liked how it worked so much that I decided to also install lights outside on the front of my coop.

They not only look super pretty, but are practical for the times I need to check on things after dark. Just like the indoor coop lights, these work with no electricity and cost just about $50. You could use outdoor lighting, but since there's no electricity actually involved, I chose some farmhouse lights meant for outdoor porch areas (covered I assume), but they are working just fine.

Using the same technique that I did for the indoor lights, I super glued a battery-operated puck light to each fixture and then screwed them to the front of my coop - one above each window (I included the links to all the products I used below).

I love how they look at dusk as I'm getting ready to lock up the girls and can't wait to see how the coop looks in the winter with snow on the ground! 

I only wish the remote were strong enough to work from the house! I might have to do some legwork and see if I can find a different product that will allow me to turn the lights on and off right from the back porch! I'll keep you posted....










What you Need:






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How to Keep Mice out of your Chicken Coop without Traps or Poison


This is the time of year when the temperatures are dropping and the field mice are looking for a nice warm, safe place to spend the winter.  Your chicken coop is looking pretty good to them right about now. It's filled with soft bedding and protects the rodents from predators like weasels, mink and fox who enjoy a little mouse snack!




Why Mice in the Coop are Bad 


Mice not only can carry disease and contaminate the area with their droppings, they can transmit lice, mites or ticks to your chickens, and they will eat your chicken feed and chew all kinds of things you don't want them to. Not only that, often snakes or other varmints will often travel using the tunnels mice dig - and that's the last thing you want. So ridding your coop and run area of mice is really important.

Of course using poisons or traps isn't really feasible around your chickens or other pets. Poisons are especially bad because often hawks, eagles or owls will eat a mouse that has been poisoned and lose its life in the process. While I'm no fan of aerial raptors, I certainly don't want them to die a slow death from poison.


Why Can't my Chickens Just Eat all the Mice


But, by now you're thinking, "but my chickens catch and eat mice." And you would be right. Chickens are omnivores, which means they'll eat almost anything, including mice (another reason why you NEVER want to use rat poison when you raise chickens).

Additionally, a chicken can run a whopping nine miles an hour, compared to the land speed race record of 8 miles an hour held by the lowly field mouse. (Now compare that to the almost 30 miles an hour your average house cat can run, and you can see why having that barn cat is so important on a farms)


But the only problem with thinking you're going to use your chickens for rodent control is that mice are mostly nocturnal, and as you know, chickens can't see very well in the dark. Once they go to roost, they tuck their head under a wing, and it's lights out for them.

And that's when the mice emerge from whatever nook and cranny they have bedded down in for the day. The mice, hidden from sight, are pretty safe in your coop during the day. Chickens don't smell their "prey". Chickens have a pretty poor sense of smell actually. They find food by sight.

Mice and their Sense of Smell 


Conversely, mice have terrible eyesight, so instead they use their noses to sniff out food. They also use their sense of smell to detect predators and other threats.

Because their eyesight is so bad, they actually have a crazy strong sense of smell to compensate. They use pheromones, or scent markers, to locate feed, communicate with each other,  navigate and find their way around, and of course sniff out predators. So-called "background odors" interfere with all of these activities.

And this is the key to keeping mice out of your chicken coop. Mess with their sense of smell and they'll likely find another place to stay.


It's All About Food and Lodging


Of course you need to remove the initial lure of your coop first. The mice are looking for two things when they consider a suitable winter home: food and lodging. Remove those and they'll likely move out with little encouragement.

I never feed my chickens in the coop. All the feed and water stays outside year round. I dump out the water tubs and pick up (or cover up) the feed when I lock the chickens up for the night.  I store all their feed and treats in covered metal pails. Therefore, there's no food for the mice in the vicinity.

Now for the lodging part. Mice, like other animals, need to feel that the place they choose for a home - to sleep in and raise offspring - is safe and secure.  By introducing strong, overpowering scents to your coop, you mess with the mouse's sense of smell.

If a mouse feels it can't adequately use its sense of smell to know when a predator is lurking, it's not going to feel that's a safe place to bed down, congregate or raise their young. (And remember, since chickens don't have a strong sense of smell, the scents won't bother them.)


Add Some Mint to the Equation


Scents that are especially effective in repelling mice are balsam or pine, citrus, rosemary, lavender and mint. Since mint grows like a weed and is a perennial in much if not all of the country, I focus on planting mint all around my coop: in the flower beds, in containers and in the window boxes.

I also regularly toss fresh mint leaves into my chicken coop and the nesting boxes. I also dry lots of mint to use in the coop through the winter and like to make this lavender mint coop refresh spray.

Maybe mint works to keep mice out of my coop and maybe it doesn't. But it's free, easy and safe. And since I've been using mint in my chicken keeping (somewhere around 2011 I guess?), I haven't seen a single mouse in our coop. So you be the judge.



Related Reading/References
https://www.mnn.com/your-home/at-home/questions/how-to-get-rid-of-mice-without-poisons-or-traps
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140803193754.htm
https://www.hunker.com/12151872/how-does-a-mouse-find-food
https://www.fresheggsdaily.com/2012/10/not-creature-was-stirring-got-mice-in.html




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